CARLOS
&
KATRINA
A
Novel by Charles Adrian Trevino
Copyright 2006,
2018
________________________________________________
Chapter
17:
The
next day dawned bright and sunny, and Carlos awoke to the sound of
the surf crashing in the distance. Upon venturing outside, Carlos
was immediately struck by the natural beauty that surrounded him.
Although he had seen the Kanalas before in movies and pictures, he
was still unprepared for the contrast between the world he was used
to and the new one he now found himself in. Green peaks towered
off in the distance under a flawless blue sky; it seemed that
everywhere he looked there was a new plant or flower he had never
seen before. The tall palm trees above him swayed lazily in the
mid–morning breeze as he took it all in; when they walked down
to the beach he was amazed by the diversity of sea shells, and made
Liko Boy laugh by constantly stooping down to pick them up, stuffing
his pockets. A typical tourist in tropical paradise.
The
waves were unusually large, and growing bigger by the hour.
They were already too big to surf at the break in front of Liko Boy’s
house, crashing over in long even walls that stretched for hundreds
of feet. The prevailing tradewinds which blew out towards the
ocean and made the surface conditions excellent for surfing were
already starting to come up, blowing spray off the tops of the
towering waves. They decided to embark immediately to Liko’s
secret spot, a secluded patch of sand which lay off the beaten path
of the swarming tourist masses.
Liko Boy described the set–up
as they sped down the highway. “It’s a tiny beach
that’s only accessible by dirt roads the fishermen use.
To even get to the dirt road that leads down to it you have to ask
permission to cross private property… my uncle’s!
It’s surrounded by rocky cliffs and there are only a few small
huts on the beach. At higher tides waves run back off the steep
beach and backwash off the waves coming in… makes it kind of
interesting. There’s a lot of sea life, so don’t be
surprised if you see a shark or something.” He
laughed. “Don’t worry, no one’s ever been
eaten there.”
They came to Liko’s uncle’s
ranch and after unlocking the gate to the fenced off property, Liko
Boy drove past some houses and turned onto a narrow, rut–filled
dirt road. They bounced along at a good speed for a while,
enjoying the lush scenery. The road came to a steep descent
that curved down to a golden sand beach situated between high cliffs,
but Liko Boy came to a stop before driving down. Finally they
had arrived, and the first thing they saw was a big perfect wave
peeling in, with the tradewinds blowing spray off of its round,
spinning curl. It was like a scene from a postcard.
“We’ll
leave the car up here and walk down… don’t want any big
waves to wash my new car out to sea!” Liko set the
parking brake and they jumped out in great excitement, staring at the
swelling ocean. Troy and Carlos unstrapped their surfboards
from the racks atop Liko Boy's car and followed their host down the
dirt road, and soon they were waxing up on the warm sandy beach.
Carlos was glad that he had bought a long, big–wave surfboard
on the mainland from a shaper familiar with the larger, more powerful
island waves. The time had come for Carlos to test his mettle
and he was ready, but with no other surfers in the water to use as a
yardstick there was no way of gauging how big the waves really
were.
The first indication Carlos got of the true size of the
swell was when he paddled out behind Liko Boy and Troy. The
initial inside shorebreak waves he encountered were bigger than the
waves he usually surfed on the mainland. As he paddled hard to
clear them he briefly worried about the difficulty of getting back
into shore, but upon reaching the outside break line Carlos quickly
forgot all about the smaller inside waves.
He
had jumped into surf bigger than anything he had ever ridden before.
Massive blue–green peaks were moving in from the horizon like
rolling liquid mountains, and they were perfectly shaped for
surfing. Coming at him faster and larger than anything he had
previously surfed, the waves would then hit a shallow reef and jack
upwards another four to five feet before breaking. It was an
unnerving spectacle to behold, as Carlos scrambled to stay out of the
way of the huge pitching breakers.
Liko Boy appeared to be
elated. “12 foot sets easy, boys! This is even
bigger than I thought it would be! Conditions are perfect…
I know this place will hold most of the set waves, but something
might come in that's too big to ride, so watch out!” With
that Liko Boy spun around and paddled away from them towards a
mountainous peak that was building up outside.
When Liko Boy
said 12 foot waves he was referring to the back of the wave, as
meteorologists and all Kanala surfers did. The actual height of
the front of the wave was well over 20 feet. As Troy and Carlos
watched, Liko Boy paddled confidently into the imposing monster.
He jumped to his feet and plunged straight down the vertical face,
his arms outstretched like the wings of a gull. Carlos was
stunned for a second by the beauty of the art form; it was a glorious
thing to behold. Then Liko Boy was gone from sight as the wave
passed, showering them in the spray the wind blew off the top of
it.
Troy looked over at Carlos and laughed. “We
better wait for some in–betweeners to start off with.
Liko Boy is used to this stuff! Take a smaller wave and get the
feel of it first, Carlos, then gradually work your way up to the
bigger ones.”
The problem was there weren’t a lot
of smaller waves; smaller waves only broke on the inside, and the two
didn't want to move inside to catch them and risk being caught by the
outside sets, which were a consistent 12 feet. After a while Troy
worked up the nerve to take off on a set wave, paddling furiously.
He got a smooth takeoff and, after jumping to his feet, seemed to
glide effortlessly into the smooth glassy pit of the wave, making the
whole process look easy. Then he too disappeared from sight as
the spray from his wave rained down on Carlos.
For the first
time Carlos began to appreciate Troy’s many years of island
experience. There was just no substitute for Kanala experience;
the bigger island waves demanded courage and respect. But
something else was now entering into the picture; it was the friendly
competition that existed between Carlos and Troy as surfers.
Though Carlos liked to consider himself the better surfer, Troy had
more big–wave experience. His ability to get to the
islands so often and sharpen his skills had always been a thorn in
his side; now Carlos found himself floating all alone in an ocean of
opportunity. He would have preferred to start off on smaller
waves, but there were none available. He would have to take
what was there, or else hand the crown over to Troy. In his
mind he just couldn’t do that.
Carlos let several waves
pass by, then chose a smooth glassy beauty that was rolling straight
towards him. As he turned to paddle for it Carlos attempted to
put all fear out of his mind, but nothing he had previously surfed
had prepared him for this moment. As the wave hit the shelf it
jacked up violently, lifting him higher and higher. He paddled
furiously to get over the ledge that was forming at the top; he
couldn’t see the face of the wave below him.
Instinctively he chose the right moment to get to his feet.
The
feeling was like jumping off a cliff, as his surfboard fell away from
under him. He plunged downwards with his arms upstretched,
free–falling into the abyss. Halfway down the vertical
face he knew he would make it to the bottom in one piece; his main
concern now was the thick lip of the curl that was pursuing him. As
soon as he dared Carlos began to lean over into his turn in an
attempt to outrun the heavy cascade. His board had been well
designed, and to his relief the rail carved smoothly into the
uprushing water as he accelerated to his right.
The sensation
of velocity was incredible; Carlos thought he had more than enough
speed to outrun the curl, which was all he wanted to do at this
juncture. Then suddenly an ominous shadow began to darken the
sparkling sunlit face of the wave in front of him; to his surprise
the huge lip threw completely over him, crashing down onto the trough
below him. He was now far back in the tube, completely at the
mercy of the roaring beast attempting to devour him. The
whitewater churning around inside the huge cylinder began to overcome
him, and everything went dark. He prepared to die.
Suddenly
it was over. The wave slowed its speed and Carlos shot out from
behind the curl into the sunlight again. It had shrunk in size,
and he began to climb and drop on its perfectly shaped face with more
confidence, going faster than he had ever gone before. Then it
entered a deep water channel and quickly died out, leaving Carlos'
speeding board chattering across flat water. As he came to a
stop and dropped to his deck, Liko Boy was paddling back out from his
own long wave, yelling something at him; he had appreciated his tube
ride. Carlos grinned, then turned around and immediately began
paddling back out himself, his only thought being to get another big
one. His fear had completely disappeared.
They surfed
for hours, doing battle with the towering, fire–breathing
dragons that rolled in relentlessly to challenge them. With no
other surfers out in the water they could afford to be choosey, and
took only the best waves. But as the afternoon advanced a light
mist began creeping down from the hilltops, descending onto the small
beach and into the water. The waves were changing color, going
from a cheerful sunlit blue–green to a more serious looking
silvery–gray, and gradually increasing in size until they had
reached a truly intimidating stature. Neither Carlos nor Troy wanted
to be the first one to chicken out and go in; the two surfers looked
at each other, trying to detect signs of doubt and fear in each
other’s poker faces, but said nothing.
Liko Boy had no
intention of leaving. He had been surfing superbly all
afternoon, and as his wave count increased his demeanor had changed
from calm and positive to something entirely different, something
dark and almost demoniac; he seemed obsessed with conquering the
worst the sea could throw at him, as if there were a personal grudge
match between them. Now he had completely worked himself up,
pugnaciously yelling out at the ocean as the biggest set of the day
appeared on the horizon and bore down on them:
“Bigger!
Bigger, King Neptune!”
Carlos and Troy took one look at
the incoming waves, and began paddling as hard as they could out to
sea in a desperate attempt to avoid being crushed. Stroking over the
top of the first one, they felt their hearts palpitating as they saw
that the next wave was bigger and was going to break even farther
outside. Thrashing and kicking like mad, they barely made it
over the top of the second wave. The nightmare repeated itself
again, and then a fourth and fifth time, as the biggest wave of the
set loomed over their heads. Feeling exhausted, Carlos put
everything else out of his mind and concentrated on taking one stroke
after another up the massive face. As he paddled weakly over
the top, barely making it over, he finally gave up and collapsed onto
the deck of his board, unable to take another stroke.
Completely out of breath, he lay face down on his board and floated
helplessly, waiting for the next wave to finish him off.
After
a while he looked up again. There were no more waves coming.
He was floating alone far out in the ocean, his friends having failed
to make it over the last one. As he rested on his board feeling
a numb sense of relief that the set had ended before completely
destroying him, he was struck with awe as he contemplated the mauling
Troy and Liko must have taken from that last wave; Carlos had only
escaped that cruel punishment by a few inches. Some more waves
came through but did not threaten him; he was far enough outside to
be safe for now. It was several minutes before he saw Liko Boy
paddling back out towards him.
Apparently
the thrashing he had just taken had not humbled Liko Boy at all; it
had only made him more determined to fight on. He came towards
Carlos paddling hard, as if he were being pursued by devils, cursing
and laughing at the same time like a madman. Carlos could not
imagine where he got the energy to paddle so fast, after taking a
beating that would have rivaled going five rounds with a world
champion prizefighter.
As Liko Boy passed by Carlos, he
laughed at his astonished expression. “Hey Carlos!
Got caught inside, bro! Better get out there; more bigger waves
coming!” Liko paddled out another twenty yards and
stopped. He sat on his board and stared out at the gray ocean
in defiance. It was a surrealistic scene, with the light mist
hanging under a dreamlike sky that matched the color of the ocean.
The mood of the ocean had definitely changed. Carlos looked
around and was surprised to see Troy appear over the top of a wave
inside of him, coming back out for more. Carlos found himself
admiring Troy’s strength of spirit; he really didn't want to be
the first one to go in to the beach.
Carlos spun his
head back around out to sea, as Liko Boy vocally erupted again.
“Neptune! You can’t kill me!” He roared out at the
ocean. "I’m stronger than you, ha ha!!” He
shook his fist in the air, laughing maniacally. Carlos thought
Liko Boy had gone completely mad; all he wanted at that point was to
catch the smallest possible wave and go in.
“Carlos!”
Troy
was yelling to be heard from a distance. “We have to go
in! It’s getting too big!” Carlos turned to
regard Troy again; still paddling frenetically, he had almost made
it back outside.
“NEPTUNE!!” screamed Liko Boy.
“Come on, Neptune! I dare you to challenge me!!
Show yourself, you coward!”
Carlos began watching Liko
Boy once more, fascinated by his mad display of bravado. In
spite of the punishment he had just taken, Liko was laughing,
bellowing and shaking his fists in defiance of the mythical ocean
god! It was an awe–inspiring sight, something Carlos knew
he wouldn't forget.
After a little while Troy finally made it
back outside to where Carlos was sitting, but was too tired to say
anything. He flopped down onto his board, resting. “Troy!
Why did you come back out?” asked Carlos. “Liko
Boy’s lost his mind… he’s gone insane!”
“Naw,
he always acts like that when it’s big,” said Troy,
catching his breath. “Carlos, we have to go in right now!
Damn it, I had to paddle back out to tell you. Those
step–ladder sets mean the swell is just beginning to increase!
It’s gonna' get bigger, huge! Take the next wave in, or
you’ll be stuck out here in giant surf, and it’s getting
dark. At high tide the beach disappears. If you wait too
long, you won’t be able to get back in!” With that
admonishment, Troy turned and began stroking back towards shore. He
caught a smaller ten–foot insider and was gone, heading for the
safety of the beach.
Liko Boy began laughing loudly again, and
once more Carlos turned to watch him. To his dismay he saw Liko
Boy drop down onto his board and start to paddle, as if he had seen
more waves coming. Carlos immediately followed suit, cursing
under his breath; apparently this set was going to break even farther
out than the last one, meaning that it would be of monstrous size.
He didn’t have long to wait; from out of the mist a gray
fourteen-foot behemoth appeared, bearing down rapidly on them.
It was the first and smallest wave of the set and Liko Boy paddled
over it, hoping for something more challenging. Carlos didn’t
wish to confront anything bigger. He spun around and paddled
hard, wanting only to get back to shore and feel the earth under his
feet again.
Carlos caught the wave and took the scariest drop
of his life, feeling as if he were falling down a vertical
mineshaft. Barely making it to the bottom intact, he didn’t
even try to turn, instead heading straight in towards the beach.
The lip touched down, exploding into whitewater just behind him and
nearly knocking him off his board, but he managed to stay on,
crouching low. As the churning mass began to engulf him, Carlos
threw himself down on his stomach and proned out, hanging onto his
bouncing surfboard for dear life; if he could stay with his board the
wave would carry him almost all the way in to the beach. Then
Carlos saw something that terrified him; an immense backwash wave had
run off the steep beach and was heading back out to sea, on a
collision course with his incoming wave. When the two opposing
forces met there would be a violent, spectacular clash, with him
being caught right in the middle of it. Not knowing what else
to do, he threw himself off his board into the churning whitewash.
He was sucked down and tumbled around underwater like a rag doll, the
turbulence threatening to tear off his arms and legs as he attempted
to roll up into a ball. He felt the shock wave from the
backwash collision happening above him, but he had managed to escape
the brunt of it. As the turmoil subsided he surfaced into thick
sudsy foam, his lungs burning for air.
His leash had broken,
and his board was nowhere to be seen. Feeling almost completely
spent, Carlos swam the rest of the way to the shore, sincerely
thanking God as his feet touched solid ground again. He picked up
his board which had come to a rest on the sand, and staggered up the
beach to where Troy was sitting on a big boulder.
“That
was hilarious,” said Troy. Carlos cursed something under
his breath as he sat down heavily in the sand. “I’ve
gotta’ cut down on my smoking,” he muttered.
“That
backwash can really screw a guy up, eh?” Troy laughed
rudely. Carlos gave Troy a dirty look, then turned to survey
the beach around him. Behind them a Kanala fisherman was busily
loading up a truck from one of the small huts that stood just off the
road. He turned and looked at them. “Hey!” he
yelled. “You no surf here! Waves getting bigger!
Beach not safe… you go to high ground now!”
“I
know, I know! We’re waiting for our friend, then we’re
leaving!” Troy yelled back.
The fisherman scowled at
them. “That guy crazy!
Waves too big for here! Waves go all the way to hills there!”
He pointed off to the hills behind them. “Radio say
‘vacuate!”
“Thank you, thank you!”
Troy waved at the fisherman and smiled. The fisherman said
something and turned back to his truck. He hurriedly finished
securing his load, then jumped in and drove off, speeding up the dirt
road.
“He’s
right… this beach is no place to be on a huge swell,”
said Troy. “The cliffs funnel the waves right into this
place; those huts get washed away every five years or so. I
wish Liko Boy would come in.”
“He said something
about the radio… did he say evacuate?” Carlos asked,
watching the fisherman driving away. “Looks like he’s
abandoning his hut…”
“Hell, those big
storms must have converged or something! We really should go
higher…” Troy looked out to sea. “Oh
my god, look at this!”
Carlos looked at the ocean.
An immense wave was coming in, noticeably larger than anything they
had seen all day. They stared in awestruck wonder as it curled
over and exploded, sending tons of whitewater shoreward. Troy
whistled. “Now that’s
big,” he said.
“Yeah,” Carlos agreed, as the
wave drew closer. But something was not right; the wave had
reached the point where the other waves began to dissipate, but was
still coming on strong. As it bore down on the beach it
suddenly became apparent to both of them that this wave had no
intention of stopping where the other ones stopped. An eight
foot wall of churning seawater hit the steep beach and quickly
devoured it.
They looked at each other. Without saying a
word they both jumped up and bolted for higher ground, abandoning
their boards. Troy was in the lead; he made it to a nearby tree
and scrambled up into the branches, hanging on for life and limb as
the surging ocean caught up with them. A few feet behind him,
Carlos was knocked down, submerged and carried away with the
irresistible force. As it flowed like a river back out to sea,
he was dragged helplessly along with it. Fighting the undertow,
he managed to get to the surface and take a quick breath before being
pulled under again.
“Don’t
panic… don’t panic...” he thought, as he held his
breath and waited. He was being swept like a piece of driftwood back
into the ocean. After struggling for what seemed like an eternity he
was able to fight his way back to the surface, where he gratefully
sucked in some precious air. Gasping hoarsely he took a look around,
assessing his situation.
The surge had carried him quite a
ways back out, and he quickly realized he was in a very dangerous
spot. There were more waves coming in, and he was in danger of
getting pushed back into the murderously pounding shorebreak.
It was almost dark, and he had to decide now whether to swim out to
the relative safety of deeper water or else try for the beach
again. He watched as another huge wave loomed up outside,
feeling a strange sense of detachment, as if he were viewing his
predicament from above.
As Carlos floated, treading water,
he saw Liko Boy appear at the top of the massive wave, thrashing
wildly to get in. As if in a drug–induced trance, he
calmly watched as Liko plunged down and into the guts of the monster.
Over the roar of the ocean he thought he heard the sound of Liko
Boy’s insane laughter again; nothing Liko did could surprise
him now. Carlos watched the whitewater bearing down on him and
waited until it was very close; then filling his lungs with air, he
dove underwater and rolled into a ball. As the wave struck him
he remained in his dreamlike state of mind, a piece of flotsam caught
in a violent, whirling maelstrom.
The next thing he knew he
was back in shallow water. He gratefully felt the sand under
his feet again as the wave deposited him a few yards from shore and
withdrew. He struggled to the beach and suddenly realized it
had almost disappeared; there were only steep cliffs right in front
of him now. He had been swept far south of the place he had so
carelessly sat with Troy just minutes earlier.
It
was impossible to get back to the road; the tide was higher now and
the waves were smashing into the cliff to the north of him,
completely blocking his access. Looking to the south, Carlos could
only see high cliffs stretching for miles. With darkness falling and
his escape route cut off, there was only one option left to him: to
climb as far as he could up the cliff in an attempt to put himself
out of reach of the waves, which he knew were only going to get
bigger.
Carlos
scanned the cliffs in front of him. A little ways to his south
he saw a promontory that looked climbable, and he made for it as
quickly as he could. He reached it and began to climb, thanking
God again as he found easy handholds and footholds in the quickly
disappearing light. The wet rock told him that the waves had
reached far up the cliffs already, and the sounds of the pounding,
steadily increasing surf reminded him that they would reach even
higher. He had to get as high up as possible and perch there,
probably all night, as he waited for the waves to subside or for a
receding tide to allow him to make a run for the road, the only way
out; soon the incoming tide, combining with an ever-increasing swell
would turn the beach below him into a churning death zone. His only
other choice now was to swim out into the raging ocean in the dark...
and tread water all night long.
Carlos
had climbed about 30 feet when he looked up and saw what he thought
was a niche in the face of the cliff where he could safely sit.
With the daylight completely gone it seemed like a miracle. He
scampered up the remaining few yards and over a protruding boulder,
and was very surprised at what he found. There was a large recess in
the cliff, with soft marine grass growing in a flat spot that
measured about 10 by 15 feet. Strange cactus–looking
plants grew off to the sides. Just out of reach above him
appeared to be even more foliage and perhaps a way out, but it was
impossible to climb any higher due to the steepness of the
surrounding walls.
Nonetheless,
his promontory was situated high enough up to be safe from the waves,
and it looked like a comfortable, if not downright pleasant place to
spend a warm tropical night. He had lucked out for once,
thought Carlos as he lay down in the thick soft grass and rested.
He was completely exhausted.
Carlos closed his eyes and began
to doze off. He hadn’t slept more than a few minutes when
the sound of the crashing waves brought him around again. The
surf was still smashing violently into the cliffs below him, but the
moon had come out and was casting a mellow light. He suddenly
remembered Troy and Liko Boy and shook himself fully awake. In
his tiredness, he had completely forgotten about his companions.
The
last thing he had seen before being sucked out to sea was Troy
jumping up into the branches of a sturdy tree. Carlos couldn’t
be sure, but he thought that Troy had made it to safety. If he
had, he would have climbed down from the tree once the deluge receded
and run back to the road and up the hill to get help. But
perhaps the ocean had plucked him from the tree and sucked him out to
sea along with Carlos. If so, he would have been washed south
just as Carlos had been, down to where there was no beach and the
waves were smashing into the cliffs; the chances of him being as
incredibly lucky as Carlos had been were very slim. If the
ocean had indeed snatched Troy from the safety of his tree, he was
probably dead by now. It was a sad and sobering thought.
He
thought of Liko Boy, recklessly surfing huge waves into the night.
With all his ocean experience, Liko had miscalculated this time.
It was unlikely that he could have found his way to the small beach
in the dark. Carlos shuddered to think of what fate might have
befallen him, but he was convinced that Liko Boy had perished.
Grimacing, he could picture Liko desperately paddling further and
further out to sea in the blackness, as the waves grew steadily in
size; what a terrifying way to die.
As Carlos thought of how
the defiant Liko Boy had shaken his fist out at the ocean, defying
King Neptune to kill him, tears sprang to his eyes. He hadn’t
known Liko Boy very long, but his indomitable spirit had made a
lasting impression on Carlos. Liko may have been out of his
mind, but he had died a hero’s death in the arms of the ocean,
doing what they all loved. Carlos would always remember
him.
Carlos sat up and gazed at the full moon. So many
things had happened to him in such a short span of time, it was
making his head spin to think about it now. He suddenly
remembered his band back home, and the upcoming concert dates Frank
Fortune had arranged for them. There really was no reason to
think anything would change; the tide was going to drop eventually,
and he would be able to make a dash across the exposed strip of sand
to the road, from where he could safely get away from this death–trap
beach. If all went well, he would walk away from this tragedy
and into what might appear to an observer to be an enviable
situation, rejoining Slasher and the boys back at home. He
would carry on, but would continue to do so with a heavy
heart.
Carlos had been trying to hide the depression he'd been
feeling, after blowing it with Katrina on their first date. Yet
at the same time he had been consoling himself with the thought that
perhaps there was still hope, and the progress he was making in
trying to launch his band was bolstering that hope. He was
beginning to worry about how much time had actually passed since he
had last spoken to Katrina. Things had been happening so fast…
probably for both of them.
As he lay back on the grass and
gazed up at the brightly lit sky, a shooting star whizzed directly
over him. It was a common sight out here, where there were no
bright city lights. “Make a wish,” Carlos thought to
himself. Closing his eyes, he wished for everything; that his
band would be a success, that Katrina would forgive him and give him
another chance, that Troy was safe, and that Liko Boy would somehow
come through this night alive; he wished that the crashing waves
which were shaking the cliffs would not rise up too high and snatch
him from his comfortable nest. Then having finished his wishes, he
opened his eyes once more. "If only wishes could come true..."
he murmurred to himself, looking up at the stars. Then, slowly, he
started to nod off again.
Suddenly he heard someone calling
his name. “Carlos!”
Carlos nearly jumped out of
his skin. Liko Boy’s head appeared over the protruding
rock that guarded the entrance to his alcove.
“Liko...
what?
Are
you alright?" Carlos leaped to his feet, hardly believing what
he was seeing. "How did you get in? Are you
hurt?”
“Nah, I’m ok, but I broke my board in
half on my last wave. I know every nook and cranny of this
beach. You found the only safe place to be on a night like
this!” Liko Boy climbed up and over the rock and sat down
besides Carlos. He was perfectly calm and composed, not even
breathing hard.
Carlos stared at him in disbelief. “I
can’t believe you made it in! The waves were smashing
into the cliffs, there was nowhere to go… I think Troy made it
out ok, but I thought you were a goner for sure!
“Naw…
like I said, I know this place. When night falls you just aim
for the break in the cliffs where we came in… but the beach is
all covered up! I had to swim down here to look for you…
you found my safe little perch! That was good thinking,
Carlos. We’re perfectly safe here, unless a 50 footer
comes in. It’s really kind of a nice place to spend the
night; I’ve had to do it before.”
Carlos suddenly
realized why the fisherman had told them Liko Boy was crazy.
Evidently he did this often… surfing a beach that became a
death trap when the waves got too big. Carlos’ mind was
reeling in amazement at the thought of such a thing.
“Too
bad we lost our boards, though… damn things get more expensive
every day!”
“Fuck the goddamned boards!"
Carlos exclaimed loudly. “I’m just glad we didn’t
lose our fucking lives!
We’re
alive,
Liko!!”
“Yeah, that's good... but shit, Troy’s
gonna’ find my keys, take my car to my uncle’s, call the
coast guard, get my wife all upset, I know it! Nothing to be
done about it, though. My fault for bringing him here.
But I’m really upset I broke that board…”
Liko looked down at the ground and shook his head. “That
was the best board in the Islands,” he solemnly pronounced.
He looked up again, seeing Carlos' expression of disbelief, and broke
out in laughter.
“You're right Carlos," Liko Boy
said, looking up at the star–filled sky. A smile came over his
face. "It’s no big thing. When God plays with you in
Kanala, sometimes he plays rough.” As he spoke these
words, another meteor shot across the night sky over their
heads.
Carlos felt his spirits lifting, like a hot air balloon
rising from the earth. It was times like these that made him
truly believe in a God; some all–knowing, benevolent force that
was watching over him, giving him signs of its existence, and helping
him to cope with his strange earthly situation -- when it wasn't
screwing him up. Something majestic, but which possessed an impish
sense of humor; something that loved to toy with and test him,
incessantly. He had long taken comfort in his strong conviction that
this entity existed, and that there was a reason for his own
existence, with all of its attendant joys and miseries. Perhaps if
he played along and did what this God wanted, it would help him
attain his earthly goals; but first he had to know exactly what it
was
this God wanted. He would have to contemplate the matter
further...
Carlos and Liko Boy talked long into the warm,
beautiful Kanala night; then Liko Boy finally fell asleep, his head
lying in a soft mound of grass. Carlos watched him breathing easily
as he dreamed, and decided he had better get some sleep himself. He
felt sure now that Troy had made it back to the road, and would
probably be coming back soon with help to look for them, but it
really wasn't necessary; they were perfectly safe and comfortable in
their pleasant perch, and at low tide he and Liko Boy would simply
take a nice walk up the beach and back to the safety of the
road.
Carlos
lay back and began to doze off once again, this time without the
weight of the sorrow he had felt before. In fact, he was feeling
good now; really good. He had already gotten one of his wishes;
maybe they would all come true.
**************
____________________________________________________________
Copyright
2006, 2018 by Charles Adrian Trevino.